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History


Phi Sua Samut Fort
Written by Richard Barrow   
Monday, 03 Aug 2009

ในช่วงศตวรรษที่ 19 การล่าอาณานิคมของชาติมหาอำนาจอย่างประเทศอังกฤษและฝรั่งเศสได้แผ่ขยายมายังเอเชียตะวันออกเฉียงใต้ ประเทศไทยก็เป็นหนึ่งในประเทศเป้าหมายของชาติมหาอำนาจเหล่านั้น พระบาทสมเด็จพระจุลจอมเกล้าเจ้าอยู่หัว รัชกาลที่ 5 ทรงมีพระดำริให้สร้างป้อมปราการขึ้นบริเวณปากแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา เพื่อป้องกันข้าศึกที่จะเข้ามาเมืองหลวง มีการนำเข้า 'ปืนเสือหมอบ' จากประเทศอังกฤษ มาติดตั้งบริเวณป้อมพระจุลฯ 7 กระบอก และ 3 กระบอก ติดตั้งที่ป้อมผีเสื้อสมุทร

ป้อมผีเสื้อสมุทรตั้งอยู่บนเกาะกลางแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา อยู่ระหว่างวัดพระสมุทรเจดีย์และศาลากลางจังหวัด ป้อมนั้นยังคงสภาพที่ดีอยู่ อาจเป็นเพราะว่าตั้งอยู่บนเกาะทำให้มีการลุกล้ำพื้นที่บริเวณนี้น้อย การเดินทางไปที่ป้อมนั้นทำได้โดย นั่งเรือข้ามฝากจากพระสมุทรเจดีย์มาฝั่งเมืองปากน้ำ และบอกให้คนขับช่วยแวะจอดเรือที่ป้อม ส่วนเวลาออกจากป้อมเพื่อกลับเข้าฝั่ง ทำได้โดยการโบกเรือลำถัดไป (คลิก ที่นี่ เพื่อชมวีดีโอและแผนที่)

During the late 19th Century, the colonial powers of France and to a lesser extent Great Britain were attempting to carve up parts of Siam for themselves. In order to protect his kingdom, King Rama V ordered the construction of Phra Chulachomklao Fort at the entrance to the Chao Phraya estuary. He also ordered the modernization of other forts on both sides of the river in Samut Prakan so that the approach to Bangkok could be protected. The work on the fort started in 1884 and took ten years to complete. This was to be not only the most modern fort in Thailand, but also comparable to forts in the West.

King Rama V ordered at great expense the latest guns from W G Armstrong & Co in England. These were ten 6 inch Armstrong Guns which weighed five tons each. They were the first rear-loaded guns in the Thai Navy and they had an interesting characteristic. They were called the "disappearing" guns because they only came out of the pit to fire and then the recoil forced the gun back where it came from. This protected the guns from enemy fire. That was the theory. All of the aiming had to be done while the gun was in the pit. Each shell weighed 45 kilos. The gun was then hauled up be a hydraulic mechanism and the shot fired. The range was about 8 kilometres.

Seven of these guns were installed at the Phra Chulachomklao Fort. The remaining three were set up at Phi Sua Samut Fort which is an island in the middle of the river near the present day City Hall. About three months after their completion they saw action for the first and only time. On 13th July 1893, two French gunboats entered the estuary with the intention to blockade Bangkok. Shots were fired and a small boat that was acting as a pilot for the French ships was badly damaged and ran aground. Despite heroic action by the soldiers at the fort and the sailors aboard ships on the river, the two French gunboats managed to slip by. By the time it reached the inner fort it was too dark for anyone to continue the battle. The gunboats were then able to go all the way up the river to Bangkok.

Phi Sua Samut Fort is one of the few battlements left in Samut Prakan that is still in a good condition. This is probably because it is on an island with restricted access to the public. I first visited the island back in 2006 when the Navy were just finishing their renovation of the fort. The idea was to open it up as a tourist attraction. Although you won't see it promoted in any tourist guidebook, it is possible to visit the island. You need to catch a ferry boat that goes from Phra Samut Chedi to Paknam Market (click here for video and map). The boat doesn't normally stop at the island but it is possible to ask the captain to drop you off. He won't stop for long so you need to be quick. Once you have finished, you need to wave down the next boat as it passes.

PHOTO ALBUM

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MAP OF SAMUT PRAKAN

We have marked the location on a map of Samut Prakan.

 
Paknam Railway Trip
Paknam Railway
Paknam Railway
These are stills of a trip on the Paknam Railway in 1931. It is from an old travel reel by Fitzpatrick Pictures called "Siam to Korea". You can watch this video on youtube. It starts as they arrive in Thailand by boat. They disembark at the port of Paknam. In the photos below you can see that the Paknam Terminal is alongside the river. After filming some of the locals, they then depart for Bangkok aboard the tram. You can clearly see that it is a single track. One of the stations that it passes is Bang Jak.
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Paknam RailwayPaknam Railway
Paknam RailwayPaknam Railway
Paknam RailwayPaknam Railway
Paknam RailwayPaknam Railway
Paknam RailwayPaknam Railway
Last Updated on Thursday, 30 April 2009
 
Samut Prakan Forts
Written by Richard Barrow   
Monday, 06 April 2009

Samut Prakan was built as a frontier town to protect the approach to Bangkok further up-river. Its importance grew due to its s tragic position at the river mouth. Walls were built along the river and forts were built at various locations. Many of these are now in a very dilapidated state or have been built over. However, a few remain in a good state and along the river bank on both sides are cannons left over from this period.

The six main forts are as follows:

  1. Phra Chulachomklao Fort (in good condition and open to the public)
  2. Plaeng Faifah Fort (now a park in Phra Pradaeng)
  3. Phi Sua Samut Fort (can be seen on the island between Paknam Market and Phra Samut Chedi)
  4. Nakarat Fort
  5. Pracone Chai Fort

The following is a report of a visit to the Phra Chulachomklao Fort in June 1893, by Gustave Rolin-Jaequemyns, General Adviser to the King:

"For a long time we inspect the considerable work on the fort which, by its position, commands the river mouth and approximately a mile and a half of its course. There are seven brick towers, each equipped with a heavy caliber Armstrong gun. The masonry is completed. It only needs to be covered with a casing of earth and grass.

A mile into the sea there is a target on which they fire three shots with one gun and two with another. The charge of each shot is from 25 to 30 pounds of powder. The guns are hidden. They are hauled up by a hydraulic mechanism at the moment of the aiming and they disappear by themselves after the shot. The sight of this big, sly machine which ambushes and takes aim like a brigand to hide immediately thereafter, has something ferocious about it."

The following month, on July 13th 1893, a skirmish took place between two French ships and the garrison manning the fort. Both sides suffered casualties. Although a smaller ship which was acting as a pilot boat for the French ships was badly damaged, the gun-ships still successfully bypassed the fort and other Thai gun-ships and made it up-river to Bangkok.

Last Updated on Monday, 03 Aug 2009
 
Paknam Incident 1893
Written by Richard Barrow   
Monday, 06 April 2009
paknam incident paknam incident
Display at Phra Chulachomklao Fort King Rama V visiting the fort in 1893

During the second half of the nineteenth century, countries in Southeast Asia were under pressure and threat from Western powers. With their mighty fleets, England and France were able to seize almost all the autonomous states in this part of the world. Thailand was the only kingdom in the Indochina Peninsula that managed to survive as an independent state amid the colonial expansion of the Wet. The Thais were more fortunate than their neighbours in that Kings Nang Klao, Mongkut and Chulalongkorn, as well as the elite, realized that they needed a cautious foreign policy in dealing with Western countries, especially England and France.

Laos and Cambodia had been Thai vassal states since the days of Ayutthaya, though they occasionally tried to secede. Then in the mid-19th century, France, with Vietnam under its control, started to exert more and more power over Cambodia to compete with England and to establish dominance over the Mekong, which would serve as a route from Yunnan to the sea. The French sent troops into territories on the left bank of the Mekong River.

After seizing the outlying regions of Cambodia in 1863, the French turned their attention to Laos, which was a Thai vassal state. The Thai government was greatly concerned over border problems because the boundaries of the Lao states were not fixed. Moreover, they were of dual allegiance as their rulers acknowledged both Thai and Vietnamese suzerainty. Since neither of the two countries had exclusive control over these states, the French were able to lay claim over Sipsong Chu Thai and Hua Phan Thang Hok as the successor to Vietnam’s rights over them.

The French pretext for exerting their influence and advancing into Laos, which eventually led to the 1893 crisis, stemmed from the activities of the Ho raiders (fugitive rebels from China from 1875 to 1887). In suppressing the Ho, Bangkok established suzerainty over Laos states with military expeditions and supervision of their civil administration.

At one time, King Chulalongkorn sent a large army equipped with modern weapons into Laos to crush the rebels. The French in the meantime were suppressing the Ho in Tonkin. They sent troops into Laos on the pretext that they were in pursuit of the Ho who fled there. A dispute erupted with France over the Lao border and escalated to the extent that it led to the engagement, or 1893 crisis, at Paknam.

The Period Prior to the Engagement

paknam incident paknam incident
The Armstrong Gun in the "crouching" position
Observers and the raised gun ready to shoot

In 1889 and 1892 Monsieur Auguste Pavie was appointed consul and then minister to Bangkok respectively. He used military pressure in an effort to force the Thais to agree that territories from Vietnam to the Mekong were under French control, but they refused. On March 14, 1893, the Lutin, a French gunboat, arrived and moored in the Chao Phraya in front of the French legation. The reason given for its presence was to protect the interest of French nationals in Thailand and it was said that the visit would exceed seven days. However, it refused to leave.

A week passed. Another ship, the Comete, came to bring food supplies to the crew of the Lutin and prepared for naval action.

On April 10, 1893, King Chulalongkorn went to inspect Chulachomklao fort.

Towards the end of April 1893, the king ordered the navy to make preparations for defense against the encroachment of Thai sovereignty. Phraya Chonlayut Yothin, vice commander-in-chief of the naval forces, was made director of the defence of Paknam. He devised a plan of action to halt the passage of French warships at the mouth of the Chao Phraya River as follows:

1. Old guns at Chulachomklao and Phisua Samut forts were to be replaced by modern 6 inch Wigger Armstrong guns. Telephone lines were ordered to be laid between the forts for communications. Preparations were made to halt the entry of the French warships.

2. Nine war vessels were put on the alert to the North of Chulachomklao Fort. Most of them were either antiquated or just river steamers. Only two were up-to-date: The Makut Rachakuman and the Muratha Wasitsawat.

3. Barriers were to be placed across the mouth of the Chao Phraya, such as sinking boats loaded with stone to narrow the channel, and creating minefields.

Later on, other powers sent in ships to protect their interests, such as the Sumbawa of the Netherlands and the Wolf of Germany. Towards the end of June 1893, the following arrangements were made to defend the capital, including areas outside the city wall: On duty was a regular army 2,600 strong, with a reinforcement force of 1,000 men, 34 howitzers, and 9 miscellaneous big guns. Reinforcements and modern weapons were sent to strategic places such as Rayong, Laem Singh (Chanthaburi), Laem Ngop (Trat) and Ko Kong (Trat).

On July 1, 1893, England send the Pallas from Singapore. The ship moored at the bar to protect British nationals and their interests, without any sign that it would give assistance to the Thais.

On July 4, 1893, King Chulalongkorn made a private visit. He observed the howitzer firing practice.

On July 10, 1893, the French asked that the sloop Inconstant, and the gunboat Comete be allowed to cross the bar at the mouth of the river. Though the Thais refused entry, the French did not listen.

The Engagement at Paknam on July 13, 1893 

paknam incident paknam incident
Shooting at the French Ships
The two French ships and the local pilot ship

 

The Makut Ratchakuman and the Narubent Butri were getting ready to receive the Archduke of Austria. On hearing that he had not yet arrived, and that the latest news was that two French gunboats had arrived at the bar, Phraya Chonlayut Yothin ordered a full alert. Ships were positioned along the Paknam defence line:  the Makut Ratchakuman, the Narubent Butri and the Thun Kramon on the west of the channel, the Muratha Wisitsawat and the Han Hak on the east. One more cargo boat was sunk at the defence line. More mines were laid, a total of only 16.

The order was that should a French ship enter the defence line, Chulalongkorn Fort would  fire three warning shots. If it did not stop, a fourth shot would be fired and the boats could start firing.

When the French fleet consisting of the J.B. Say, a pilot boat, the Inconstant, and the Comete, arrived at the Paknam bar. Mr. Jackson, a Thai pilot of Britsh nationality, boarded the J.B. Say. Captain Will, a Thai port inspector of German nationality who took the Akkarat Woradet to Paknam, bordered the Inconstant to tell Commander Borey not to proceed up the river.

Captain Edward received orders from the commander of the Pallas, a British ship moored in the Paknam area, to board the Inconstant with th message that the French minister ordered French boats to drop anchor at thebar. The French commander refused to obey. All of the officers left except Jackson, who had to pilot the ship.

Captain Will raised the signal flag for Chulachomklao Fort to be on full alert.

At 6.15 p.m. it stopped raining. From the fort, French ships could be seen passing the lighthouse. Everyone was ordered to take battle stations.

At 6.30 p.m. the French ships reached the Black Buoy. Chulachomklao Fort fired two warning shots. The Thais did not want to be regarded as the party that started the war.

When the warning shots had no effect, a third shot was fired with live ammunition to fall in front of the ship as a warning. Another shot was fired to fall at the front of the ship too.

The French ships moved on, flying the French flag, an indication that they took battle stations. Then they started firing at Chulachomklao Fort. The fort began training guns on the target. The French ships did not exchange fire as they were quite a distance away. Later, the J.B. Say was hit, and the Inconstant was, too, with its davits broken. There were casualties.

At 6.43 p.m. the French started firing back.

At 6.50 p.m. the French ships approached the defence line. The Makhut Ratchakuman and the Muratha Wasitsawat fired at the French ships. A boat launched an explosive mine but it missed the target.

The J.B. Say was hit by cannon balls and ran aground at Laem Lamphu Rai.

The Inconstant and the Comete moved on and dropped anchor in front of the French Legation in Bangkok.

The Aftermath of the Paknam Crisis

On July 16, 1893, twelve French warships were sent to blockade the Gulf of Thailand.

On July 29, 1893, the French occupied Chantaburi to force the Thais to sign a peace treaty requiring that Thailand do the following: Cede Sipsong Chu Thai and territory on the left bank of the Mekong. They also had to pay an indemnity.

In 1903 the French pulled their troops out of Chantaburi and went on to occupy Trat.

During this time, Western nations that had dealings with Thailand such as England, Germany, and the Netherlands, were all anxious about their interests. They sent warships to keep a close watch on the situation. The French therefore did not dare to be rough.

In 1906 the French pulled all their troops out of Thai territory.

The Importance of the 1893 Engagement

The exchange of gunfire between the forts and Thai war boats and French gunboats on July 13, 1893 was very brief and caused little damage in terms of life and property. However, it had several immediate outcomes with long lasting effects as follows:

The start of negotiations between Thailand and France.

The French stopped using force in the long disputes about territories on the left bank of the Mekong.

Territorial loss of about one third of the kingdom to France on three occasions.
Last Updated on Thursday, 16 April 2009
 
Paknam Railway
Written by Richard Barrow   
Monday, 06 April 2009

The first railway in Thailand was a private line connecting Bangkok with Paknam at the mouth of the Chao Phraya River, a distance of 21 kms. Paknam at the time was the anchorage for sea-going ships that could not reach Bangkok. Work on the line was begun in 1887 and it was opened to traffic by the king on 11 April 1893. Besides the two terminals in Bangkok and Paknam it had ten intermediate stations, several of which boasted sidings. The terminals had 40 metre long wooden roofs, covering two lines as well as the main buildings and offices. The manager was a European who had his office at Paknam.

The metre-gauge line was intended for both goods and passenger traffic, passenger trains consisting of four coaches plus a brake van and offering second and third class accommodation. The distance was covered in one hour and the line crossed the many klongs and other waterways on its route on wooden bridges, some of which were of mixed wood/iron construction. The line clearly met an existing need and within a few years it showed a handsome rate of return upon the capital invested.

Though the Paknam line was a Belgian-Danish joint venture, all locomotives were built by Kraus of Munich. The Paknam line possessed four locomotives. The no. 2 engine pictured has the name Paknam. Total weight in working order of these engines was 15 tonnes.

When traffic volumes ultimately did develop to a higher level, after World War I, the Paknam railway was converted to electric traction. Streetcar-type railcars then became the predominant traffic vehicles, the light steam locomotives being disposed of. (The picture shows one of the Japanese built railcars at Paknam during the 1950's.)

During World War II, the Paknam tram was damaged when its cables were cut at Bang Chak. But the tram still ran. A tram conductor would climb up on the roof to guide the trolley across the cut section, and would reconnect it to make the tram continue.

The line was nationalised after World War II and then finally closed in 1959. This brought to an end the history of Thailand first railway and first full-length electric railway.

Source of information: 'The Railways of Thailand' by R. Ramer and published by White Lotus.

More information:

  1. Map of Paknam Railway
  2. Pictures of Railway Trip
  3. Video of Railway Trip
  4. Quest for the Paknam Steam Train
Last Updated on Monday, 13 July 2009
 
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Paknam Maps
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