One of
the first sights that greeted foreigners arriving in Thailand
150 years ago was a brilliant white pagoda on an island in the
middle of the river. The locals called it 'Phra Chedi Klang Nam',
or Pagoda in the river. The island was partly natural caused by
the accumulation of sand brought down by the flood waters. Over
the years the river has silted up even more causing the island
to become part of the west bank. Now the temple is more known
by its official name of Phra Samutchedi.
King Rama II was the first to have the idea of a temple in
the middle of the river. He noticed a natural sandbank in the
river at Paknam. He thought it would make the ideal location
for a temple. However, he died before his dream could be realised.
The task was taken over by King Rama III who started work on
the temple on Tuesday 30th October 1827. It was completed seven
months later at a cost of 233 chang (18640 baht). The Sri Lankan-style
chedi stood 20 metres high. It was bell-shaped and topped by
a ringed spire. To one side was a small temple which contained
a brass image of the Buddha.
The chedi was improved some 30 years later by King Rama IV
who wanted to show all visitors to Thailand that his people
were Buddhists. He decided to increase the height of the chedi
to 38 metres and he placed inside 12 sacred relics of the Buddha,
Phra Chaiyawat and a Buddha image.
In 1862, Anna Leonowens wrote the following about her first
view of Phra Samutchedi: On an island there "is perhaps
the most unique and graceful object of architecture in Siam;
shining like a jewel on the broad bosom of the river, fantastic
and gilded, flashing back the glory of the sun, and duplicated
in shifting shadows in the limpid waters below... Visiting this
island some years later, I found that this temple, like all
other pyramidal structures in this part of the world, consist
of solid masonry of brick and mortar. The bricks made here are
remarkable, being fully eight inches long and nearly four broad,
and of fine grain. There are cornices on all sides, with steps
to ascend to the top, where a long inscription proclaims the
name, rank and virtues of the founder, with dates of the commencement
of the island and the shrine. The whole of the space, extending
to the low stone breakwater that surrounds the island, is paved
with the same kind of brick, and encloses, in addition to Phra
Chedi, a smaller temple with a brass image of the sitting Buddha.
It also affords accommodation to the numerous retinue of princes,
nobles, retainers, and pages who attend the king in his annual
visits to the temple, to worship, and make votive offerings
and donations to the priests."
In one of the temple buildings there is an interesting mural
showing the history of the province. There is an annual temple
fair here for nine days and nine nights in the 11th lunar month
(usually in October). The temple is the symbol for Samut Prakarn
province.
